Do Geishas Still Exist in Japan?
You may have heard of geishas through Western films or classic Japanese stories—but do geishas still exist in Japan today?
Once numbering around 80,000 across the country, geisha culture dates back to the Edo Period (1603–1868), when these highly trained entertainers performed at banquets and gatherings for Japan’s elite. Known for their mastery of traditional arts, graceful presence, and refined manners, geishas were once icons of Japanese sophistication.
Today, fewer than 1,000 geishas remain, mostly concentrated in Kyoto and Tokyo. Though their numbers have dwindled, these women continue to preserve centuries-old traditions with quiet dignity and artistry. Modern geishas maintain their craft within their districts, where they’re respected as living symbols of Japanese culture rather than tourist attractions.
So, what does it truly mean to be a geisha—and how does one become one? Let’s explore.
Geisha Etymology
The word geisha is easily translated into English when we look at the two kanji it uses: ‘Gei’ (芸) means ‘art’ and ‘ sha’ (者) means ‘person’. Combined, we can translate geisha to mean a performing artist, like an entertainer or artisan.
Along with dancing, singing and playing traditional instruments, geisha are professionally trained in arranging flowers, conducting tea ceremonies and engaging in conversation. All these skills, along with their impeccable and unforgettable appearance, make a geisha the most highly respected class of artists in Japan.
It’s also important to note the dedication required of a geisha to their craft and career. These women dedicate themselves entirely to demonstrating Japanese traditional arts, and their living and working life centers around it.
What is Geisha Training?
Part of the geisha tradition is to advance through several levels of training before becoming a real geisha. But there are still questions to be answered. What is a maiko? How do you become a geiko? Read on to learn more about the fascinating process of geisha training!
Shikomi
Girls as young as 14 or 15 years old enter specialized training schools (okiya) to become geisha, usually after finishing middle school. These girls are called shikomi (仕込み), which means ‘in training’, and usually board at the school. Nowadays the entry process is often facilitated by parents emailing the okiya and discussing their child’s eligibility. Unlike earlier periods of history, no girl is sold into being a geisha. There’s an initial three-month trial period for new shikomi girls, so if they’re unhappy, they can leave the okiya during this time with no issue.
The shikomi stage of training focuses on doing household chores like cleaning and ironing around the geisha house to build discipline. Daily actions, like kneeling, bowing and offering greetings, are regularly performed to the senior geishas as a mark of respect. Mentors, called oneesan or ‘older sister’, help guide their protegees: this can be as particular as the proper ways to sit, stand, walk and speak. They also learn how to wear the kimono – an iconic part of being a geisha.
The shikomi stage typically takes less than a year. At this point, the shikomi girls take part in a misedashi ceremony, marking the transition from their early training to becoming an apprentice geisha. During the ceremony, shikomi girls wear their most formal clothing and walk around their local area to greet people in the neighborhood. They also drink ceremonial sake with their peers and other geisha.
Minarai
The minarai stage is short, taking only a month or so, and involves much of the same trappings as the maiko, including wearing similar kimono and the nihongami hairstyle. However, becoming minarai is about ‘learning by watching’: these girls will accompany maiko and geiko to banquets and functions, and observe how their elders behave.
Maiko
Apprentice geisha are called maiko (舞妓), which means ‘woman of dance’. They are usually aged between 15 to 20 years old, and their maiko training takes between two to six years. This is the period where apprentice geisha receive daily lessons in order to learn and study all the traditional Japanese arts, as well as how to host tea ceremonies and how to conduct scintillating conversation with their future clients. Skills they learn are traditional dance and playing traditional instruments to entertain guests.
Maiko also wear a colorfully designed kimono, paint their face with intricate makeup (including the infamous white face and red lip), and style their hair with pins and decorations - these accessories are called kanzashi.
When the maiko stage is complete, the erikae ceremony is held. Also called ‘the turning of the collar’ ceremony, it’s where apprentice geisha graduate.
Geiko
Becoming a full geisha is known as geiko. This is when the geisha has completed her training and can now practice the profession. There are a number of changes at this point. A geiko’s appearance is more demure and modest; they wear simpler kimono with longer sleeves and save the unique white makeup for rare occasions. Their natural hair is no longer styled: instead, they wear a shimada-style wig.
Okiya, the geisha house
In a tradition that reaches back centuries, the okiya (geisha house) is responsible for teaching, housing, clothing and feeding their trainees. In return, the girls dedicate multiple years of their lives to the training they receive from the okiya.
All trainee geisha will live at the geisha house until they finish their training, and all geisha must legally be registered with a licensed okiya throughout their career – though not all will continue living there while they work.
The okiya is a matriarchal society. It’s usually run by a geisha ‘mother’, who looks after the girls and women in her care by supporting their education and careers. This woman, known as okami or okaasan, is often a retired geisha herself.
What Happened to the Geishas?
The number of geishas declined dramatically after World War II, when women joined the workforce and social structures changed. Additionally, misconceptions arose when sex workers falsely claimed to be geishas to attract foreign soldiers, creating confusion around their role.
In truth, geishas have never been sex workers—their profession is entirely centered on performance and hospitality.
Today, fewer women pursue the path due to the rigorous training and lifestyle demands, but the geisha tradition endures through dedicated practitioners in Kyoto, Tokyo, and Kanazawa.
Where are Modern Day Geishas Located?
If you’re interested in supporting geishas, you can still visit traditional tea houses in Japan. There are about a thousand geisha based in a few major cities like Tokyo and Kanazawa, but the majority work in Kyoto which is considered to be the home of modern geisha culture.
In order to meet a geisha, a fee is required (though the exact cost of this is never revealed). Further, the possibility of meeting is only feasible if you have an invitation from a frequent guest of a geisha-frequented tea house. Luckily, lots of tour companies can arrange this.
If you’d like to learn more about geisha culture, why not try out the Bokksu Treat Yourself box? Inside you’ll find beautifully elegant items like the Nobana Dianthus Flower Face Mask and a Yuzu Multi Care Balm to give your skin some love.
Experience Japan Through Tradition and Taste
Geisha culture is a living testament to Japan’s devotion to artistry and refinement—values that also inspire Japan’s culinary and gifting traditions. From tea ceremonies to seasonal snacks, each experience tells a story of craftsmanship and care. Check out Bokksu Boutique and explore our curated collection of authentic Japanese gifts. We offer high-quality creations from artisans and family-owned businesses.
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