Tenjin Matsuri 2024: A Spectacular Celebration in Osaka

The Tenjin Festival may be two days long, but the experience it offers can last a lifetime. If you’re thinking about attending, then you should know exactly what to expect. Read this guide to get a solid understanding of Tenjin Matsuri and what it means to the people of Osaka.

Introduction:

Osaka’s annual Tenjin Matsuri is one of Japan’s top three festivals. The other two are Kyoto’s Gion Matsuri and Tokyo’s Kanda Matsuri. All three festivals are famous for their massive cultural impact, rich history, and high attendance numbers. They’re also held in honor of different enshrined spirits. Tenjin Matsuri celebrates the deity of scholarship and learning, Sugawara no Michizane.

The Tenjin Festival is an annual event on July 24 and 25, and it takes place at the Tenmangu Shrine in Osaka. If you have to miss any of those days, do not miss the second one. That’s the day reserved for the main event: land and river processions with spectacular fireworks.

The origins of Tenjin Matsuri date back over 1,000 years. Its first iteration took place in the year 951 as part of a Shinto ceremony. In the 21st century, the festival has greatly evolved to include modern activities while maintaining its religious background and cultural significance.

What is Tenjin Matsuri?

The Tenjin Matsuri is a major annual festival held in Osaka, Japan, and is filled with rituals, processions of portable shrines, fireworks, music, and dance. The festival takes place in and around the Tenmangu Shrine every year on July 24 and 25. Historians suggest that the festival originated in 951. During the Hokonagashi ceremony of that year, the people sent a spear down the Dojima River, and the act became a tradition that evolved over the centuries to become Tenjin Matsuri. Hokonagashi Shinji is still celebrated on the morning of July 24 every year. 

The Tenjin Festival is held in honor of Sugawara no Michizane, the Shinto god of learning. Sugawara no Michizane was a scholar, politician, and poet who lived in Japan during the Heian period. After his death in 903, he was deified at the Tenmangu Shrine, which was built in 949 as a place of worship for the deity. Two years later, Tenjin Matsuri was created, with the shrine as its central location. The entire two-day festival is a combination of multiple main events, which we’ll discuss in detail next.

The Main Events of Tenjin Matsuri

Come to the Tenjin Festival to experience Japanese cultural exhibitions like never before. The two-day festival schedule is packed with main events and attractions. It all begins on the morning of July 24 with the Yomiya-sa (pre-evening festival), a ceremony of rituals and prayers at the Tenmangu Shrine. The aim of these rites is to ensure the success of the Tenjin Matsuri festival.

Next comes a series of traditional music and dance performances. Spending a day at the shrine will allow you to witness the beating of the taiko Japanese drum performance, dancing with the golden Omikoshi portable shrines, and a dragon dance. The afternoon and evening are typically filled with processions of portable shrines. The first is a street procession that passes Tenjinbashi Bridge, and the second is a boat procession starting from the Okawa River.

On July 25, the main festival day or Honmiya, there will be three main events. Two of these events are the land and river processions. They’re massive ceremonies lasting all day and ending before sunset. The third and final event is the Hanabi fireworks display. You get to enjoy a breathtaking display of 3000 shots of fireworks over the Osaka evening sky. This will mark the end of the festival.

Land Procession: A Parade of Tradition

The land procession or Rikutogyo, is the first part of the July 25 grand procession that lasts all afternoon. It begins around 3:30 p.m. at Tenmangu Shrine. The procession will leave the shrine and move through the streets of Osaka for nearly three hours before finally arriving at the Okawa River. Costumed characters and carriers of a decorated mikoshi (portable shrine) will accompany the main ceremonial float. The mikoshi has a gilded phoenix at its top and is said to hold the defied spirit of Sugawara Michizane. A boy and a girl will lead a sacred messenger ox ahead of the procession. More mikoshi will join the procession along the route. One of the most prominent characters in the scene is Sarutahiko, a horse-riding goblin with an abnormally long nose. It will be riding beside the main float, alongside umbrella and lion dancers gyrating to festive music. 

River Procession: Osaka's Floating Festival

The second part of the grand procession is the river procession or Funatogyo. It kicks off around 6:00 p.m. when the land procession arrives on the shores of the Okawa River. All the floats, shrines, and participants transfer to boats waiting at the river. There are typically hundreds of boats sailing along the river, many of them lit up by lanterns. However, not all of these boats serve the same purpose.

Besides the procession boats carrying participants and their shrines, you’ll see some stage boats carrying performers of the traditional noh and bunraku theater arts for the pleasure of land observers. You can also spot Dondoko boats filled with young rowers in traditional attire as they zip across the river.

The celebrations continue throughout the evening. At 7:30 p.m., the first set of Hanabi fireworks go off and continue for several hours into the night. The bright explosions in the sky blend perfectly with the lantern illuminations of the river boats. 9:30 p.m marks the end of the festival of light and water. At that point, everyone disembarks the boats.

Role of the Tenmangu Shrine in Tenjin Matsuri

The ancient Osaka Tenmangu Shrine is the main location of the Tenjin Festival because of its close ties to the deity of learning, arts, and studies. It is considered the house of the kami Sugawara no Michizane, and all year, people come to pray to the deity for success in their exams or applications.

During the Tenjin Matsuri, the shrine becomes a gathering place for observers and participants. Its sacred grounds serve as the venue for rituals, traditional dance, and other ceremonies performed to honor Sugawara no Michizane. The floats and mikoshi are blessed and sanctified there before the processions begin. Thousands of visitors and locals gather at the Tenmangu Shrine in honor of the god before joining the procession to the river. Just outside the temple area is the Tenjinbashi-suji shopping street, where tourists can buy food, drinks, and souvenirs. 

Musical and Dance Performances at Tenjin Matsuri

Some of the major highlights of Tenjin Matsuri are the traditional dance and music performances. Amidst the loud beating of the wooden taiko drums, different groups perform traditional arts like the shishimai lion dance. This dance originates from China but is an integral part of Japanese festivals. The lion dance is one of the performing arts used to mark the start of the festival at the Tenmangu Shrine.

During the processions, you get to witness even more art forms, such as the colorful Japanese umbrella dance popular during the land parade. The Noh and Bunraku performances are typically reserved for the water procession. Noh is a dance drama involving slow movements and traditional music. Bunraku is a stringless form of puppet theater. 

The Culinary Experience of Tenjin Matsuri

The Tenjin Festival offers the perfect opportunity to enjoy the local delicacies of Osaka, the street food capital of Japan. Take a trip to any of the food markets in the city, and you’ll be greeted with countless street food options, including wagyu beef, takoyaki, and seafood. The best place to enjoy street food during the Tenjin Festival is the Kuromon Market, a 600-meter-long culinary hub in the Chuo Ward. Alternatively, you could buy delicious dishes from the food stalls opened along the Okawa River during the water parade. The following are local delicacies you must try:

• Osaka-style okonomiyaki: Osaka’s version of okonomiyaki contains tempura scraps, nagaimo, cabbage, and other ingredients mixed together. It’s much different from the Hiroshima version, which contains layered ingredients.

• Takaida-kei: This is a local specialty ramen dish made of thick noodles cooked in dark soy sauce and topped with green onions and menma (bamboo shoot).

• Kansai sushi: This Osaka-style sushi is made from sushi rice pressed with fish, eggs, eel, and shrimp.

Traditional Attire and Festival Fashion

Both participants and spectators wear vibrant traditional attire as part of the festivities. One garment that you’ll see over and over is the yukata, a lightweight, casual kimono worn in summer. It’s typically made from cotton. You can’t go wrong with wearing a yukata to Tenjin Matsuri. Wear it with a geta (wooden sandals) and carry a sensu (folded fan).

Another great option is the happi coat, a colourful straight-cut coat adorned with symbolic patterns. Pair it with hakama (traditional pants). Jinbei is another popular festive kimono. However, it’s designed for men. Made of a short-sleeve top and lightweight shorts, the jinbei is one of the most comfortable festival garments.

For accessories, you can wear kamiko (head bands), tenugui (traditional towel), and kanzashi (hair ornaments).

Fireworks at Tenjin Matsuri: A Guide

The fireworks display on the last day of the grand festival can be the highlight of the event; see it from an ideal spot. The best viewing spots for the fireworks are the Gin-bashi bridge and the park of the Imperial Hotel Osaka. You can also enjoy an unobstructed view from your room in the hotel, but remember to ask the receptionist for the ideal rooms. Hotel New Otani is another facility that offers great views.

The festival also offers seating options by the riverbank, but you need to arrive early to get a good spot for viewing the fireworks. If you plan to take photos, you need to find a place without any obstructions. In that case, you might want to consider one of the paid seating options along the river.

How to Participate in Tenjin Matsuri

Observing the festivities and cultural exhibitions is a fantastic experience, but imagine how much more fulfilling it would be to actively participate in the main events. The easiest way to participate in Tenjin matsuri is to chant together with the crowd. Common chants during mikoshi parades are “Oisa” and "Washoi.” This will give you a sense of unity with the crowd. Another easy way to participate in the festivities is to wear traditional attire. Use the tips we shared above.

If you can pick up dance moves quickly, you might also try repeating the movements of the local dancers. Carrying the mikoshi is a lot more difficult, as you have to be a member of the Tenmangu Shrine’s Ujiko group. Unfortunately, only Osaka residents can join. It will be much easier to join a volunteer group to help clean up the streets after the festival. Tenjinmatsuri gomi zero (No trash in Tenjin festival) is one of the most popular of these organizations. 

Visitor Tips for Enjoying Tenjin Matsuri

We want to help you get the most out of your visit to the festival. So, here are some practical advice for first-time visitors:

• Avoid the crowd at JR Sakuranomiya Station by walking from other stations close to the Tenmangu Shrine. JR Osaka Tenmangu Station, JR Kyobashi Station, and Subway Minamimorimachi Station are the less crowded options.

• Buy your reserved seating tickets in advance to get cheaper prices and more options.

• Arrive an hour early to secure a good spot for free.

• Show respect for the ceremonies and rituals on the festival grounds.

• Do not touch any of the floats.

The Impact of Tenjin Matsuri on Osaka's Culture

In Osaka, Tenjin Matsuri is an opportunity for people to gather and celebrate their traditions. Those who believe in the deity also honor him by participating in the festival. The festival also attracts millions of tourists from around the world. Hence, it serves as a way for foreigners to experience Japanese culture up close.

Conclusion:

Tenjin Matsuri remains a vibrant and essential part of Osaka’s cultural landscape. It appeals to people of all ethnicities, social backgrounds, religions, and cultures. If you find Japanese culture fascinating, it's best to experience the festival firsthand to fully appreciate its tradition and excitement. We can say the same for Japanese snack culture. The best way to experience it is to enjoy your own Bokksu subscription box of authentic goodies every month. We’ll deliver every box to your doorstep!